At Roots & Leisure, we love a good travel story, especially from first-time visitors to Northeast India. These stories are not only fun for us to read but also super helpful for anyone unsure about planning their own trip. So for those still taking years to plan that NE trip 😁, we hope this gives you the nudge you need!
This one’s from our friend from Mumbai, who reached out with the news that he and his wife finally decided on their maiden NE trip, but still had a bunch of questions: “Which Northeast state should I visit? Is it safe? Is June /monsoons a bad time?” We connected them with local friends in Shillong who shared a sample itinerary and a trusted taxi contact. That gave them the push they needed, and they finally booked a 9-day trip to Meghalaya.
Read on for an honest, first-hand account of their Meghalaya trip. We hope this serves as the perfect personal guide for anyone looking to plan their own Northeast adventure.
Saajan and his wife, Visha at the double-decker living root bridge in Nongriat, Meghalaya
Double-decker living root bridge in Nongriat, Meghalaya
Meghalaya – My Travel Experience
– By Saajan (as told to Roots & Leisure)
My wife and I just came back from a 9-day trip to Meghalaya this June. It was something of an unplanned trip, so most arrangements came together at the last minute, apart from our flights from Mumbai to Guwahati, which we booked about 45 days in advance.
Saajan and Visha | From Mumbai to Meghalaya
Why Meghalaya in Monsoons?
Neither of us had ever been to the Northeast before, and we’d been meaning to go for a long time. I had read about the Double Decker Living Root Bridge trek in Meghalaya & the photos I came across stuck with me. Even though June is considered off-season due to the rains, we thought, “Why not?” The monsoon has its beauty after all. It comes with its own charm & misses.
Tip: If you’re flying from Mumbai or Delhi, Guwahati is the most convenient airport to land in. Flights to Shillong are fewer and much more expensive.
Our 9-Day Itinerary
We had nine days, so we decided to stay at each place for at least two nights and take it slow.
Tip: Meghalaya can be done in 6-7 days too, if you’re tight on time and plan things well. Public transport isn’t the best here, so we booked a private cab and driver in advance—a must if you want to explore comfortably.
| Day | Place | Notes/Highlights |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Land in Guwahati (from Mumbai). Taxi to Shillong | Arrival and overnight in Shillong |
| 2 | Explore local places in Shillong | Overnight in Shillong |
| 3-4 | Mawkdok (2 nights) | Stayed at the Heritage Hotel ‘Cafe Cherapunjee’ |
| 5-6 | Cherrapunji (2 nights) | Root bridge, waterfalls |
| 7-8 | Jowai (2 nights) | Explore Jaintia Hills |
| 9 | Back to Guwahati | Overnight in Guwahati |
| 10 | Fly back | Return to Mumbai |
Food & Drinks: A Pleasant Surprise for Vegetarians
We’re both vegetarians, so we weren’t sure how that would go in a place known for its meat-based Khasi cuisine. Surprisingly, we found all sorts of vegetarian food – even in smaller towns. Food definitely was not an issue.
One of our best finds was a delicious masala dosa at Orange Roots in Cherrapunji (so worth it!). Other interesting food we tried in Meghalaya was white sesame spaghetti pasta, rice pancakes with rice millet porridge & chana masala. If you enjoy a drink, don’t miss out on the local rice beer and rice wine. We did a tasting at Rynsan in Shillong, which serves Northeast Indian cuisine, so def a thumbs up!
Dining at Rynsan in Shillong
Rice pancakes with rice millet porridge & chana masala.
Rice pancakes with rice millet porridge & chana masala
People & Culture
Everyone we met was warm and welcoming, and there’s a certain calmness and humility in how they interact. As we learned, Meghalaya has 3 major tribes: Khasi, Garo, and Jaintia. And it’s fascinating how the state is divided and shaped around them.
One thing that stood out was the unique matrilineal system among the Khasis. In most cases, family assets are passed down through the women, and after marriage, men move into their wives’ homes. We got this info from the local guide during a short trek to the Mawphlang Sacred Forest.
Cityscape | Meghalaya
Safety
Meghalaya is honestly one of the safest places to travel to—but we’ll admit, we were a bit nervous at first. Especially with the Sohra incident making the news just before our trip (which later turned out to be completely unrelated to locals!). But once we arrived, we felt safe throughout our journey. Network coverage was spotty in some areas, but we never had a moment where we felt unsafe.
That said, given the hilly terrain and how remote some places can be, it’s best to avoid venturing out too late or going deep into the wilderness without a guide.
Highlights of the Trip
The Double Decker Living Root Bridge trek was easily the highlight of the trip. I also got a chance to take a cold water dip in the river below the bridge. You can technically do this trek without a guide, but I’d recommend getting one so you don’t lose your way.
Tip: Reach early for the trek, as it takes 2-2.5 hours to reach from the top to the bridge. We started at 8 am and came back by 1 pm.
We saw many waterfalls, but my favorite was the Nohkalikai Falls. Breathtaking for sure! We spent a good 15–20 minutes just standing there, just soaking in the view 
Left: Double Decker Living Root Bridge; Right: Nohkalikai Falls
Left: Double Decker Living Root Bridge; Right: Nohkalikai Falls
Soaking in the beauty of the Nohkalikai Falls | Meghalaya
Soaking in the beauty of the Nohkalikai Falls | Meghalaya
In Mawkdok, we stayed at a heritage hotel called Cafe Cherapunjee – a charming 150+ year-old heritage property. If you’re heading towards Cherrapunjee, I highly recommend stopping here for food or even an overnight stay. Fun fact: It has a fascinating story connected to a UFO sighting in the 1960s!
‘Cafe Cherapunjee’ – a 150+ year-old heritage hotel at Mawkdok
Cafe Cherapunjee – Heritage hotel at Mawkdok
Visha enjoying the view from the balcony at Mawkdok, Meghalaya
Stay at Mawkdok, Meghalaya
What We Missed
The monsoon season may not be the best if your goal is to see absolutely everything. For instance, we didn’t get to see the majestic Laitlum Canyons or visit the Dawki River. We also missed out on Mawlynnong, famously known as the cleanest village in Asia. If you’re visiting during drier months and have time, do explore these places.
Handy Tips for Fellow Travellers
- Transportation is Key: Public transport within the state is practically non-existent, so you’ll have to rely on car rentals or private taxis. For the more adventurous, hiring a two-wheeler is also an option. We opted for a private taxi with a driver for 7 days after leaving Shillong. Internally, Shillong is best explored on a two-wheeler.
- Be Prepared for Rain: If you’re visiting this season, make sure you carry rain-protective gear, including raincoats, an umbrella, and waterproof or trekking shoes.
- Sunday Closures: This is a crucial tip: Meghalaya is largely closed on Sundays. Restaurants, shops – about 90% of everything is shut. We were in Shillong on a Sunday and missed out on many places because everything was closed.
- Early Dinners: Outside Shillong, most restaurants and places close by 8 PM or, at most, 9 PM on all days, so plan for early dinners.
Snapshots from their Meghalaya Trip | June 2025
Final Thoughts
All in all, we absolutely loved Meghalaya. It’s a great place to visit, especially if you love sightseeing and enjoy a bit of trekking in the mountains. Khublei 🙂
” Khublei!” Saajan and his wife, Visha, signing off from their monsoon trip to Meghalaya
